How to create the best skincare routine for acne-prone skin
Acne: The four-letter word none of us seem to escape. (Even Dr. Howard Murad, dermatologist, pharmacist, and founder of Murad Skincare, struggled with acne in his teens.) Fortunately, acne treatments have come a long way. Unfortunately, myths about how to treat and clear acne for good run even more rampant thanks to social media.
To help bring a little clarity to treating acne, asked Lori Cahitas, licensed esthetician and CEU-course developer for professional estheticians, to outline the best skincare routine for acne. Because acne treatment isn’t one size fits all, we’ve also included tips to help you customize a skincare routine for hormonal acne, and a skincare routine for oily, acne-prone skin.
Like all things skin, patience and consistency are keys to success. Remember: skin-cell turnover (the rate at which your skin renews) can take anywhere from 20 to 40+ days depending on your age. This dramatically impacts how quickly you’ll see results.
Your best skincare routine for acne: morning edit
Start with a salicylic acid cleanser. No matter how clean your pillowcase, bacteria, dirt, and oils collect on skin while you sleep, and that makes your morning cleanse essential.
“Oily skin types might prefer a acne gel cleanser for it’s gentle foaming feel,” Cahitas says. “Those with hormonal acne in their 30s or beyond might prefer an acne cream cleanser that is more hydrating and nourishing, because skin tends to get drier as we age (but that doesn’t mean it’s immune to breakouts).”
Following your cleanse, apply a toner. Toners used to be alcohol-based treatments that would strip away the top layers of oil, giving that “squeaky clean” feeling that actually isn’t that beneficial. Today’s toners for breakouts have more balanced, gentle ingredients like cucumber extract to soothe, algae extract to help reduce shine, and antioxidants to fight free radical damage.
Next, apply an all-over treatment serum. Treatment serums are lightweight but pack a super-concentrated punch of active ingredients, like salicylic acid, that can dive deep to clear out pore-clogging oils, bacteria, and debris. Cahitas chooses serums that “Look for your serum to “also include ingredients like mandelic acid that help smooth rough texture and even tone, and glutamic acid that helps skin look and feel healthier.”
Target individual breakouts with a spot treatment. “Select your acne spot treatment based on the severity of your breakout,” advises Cahitas. “For type 1 or grade 1 acne (think blackheads and whiteheads), a salicylic acid treatment will be the most effective. For types 2-4 or grade 2-4 acne (think papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts), look for a treatment with a phytosteroid (plant-based steroid). This ingredient mimics the results you’d see from an in-office steroid shot or treatment provided by a dermatologist.”
And finally, it’s time to moisturize and apply SPF. Sunscreen gets a bad rap for triggering breakouts and making oily skin worse. “New dispersions of SPFs that double as moisturizers and skin treatments mean you can reap the benefits of UV defense without clogging pores—all while mattifying skin and minimizing pore size for a smooth, flattering finish,” Cahitas says. Some even serve as a multitasking makeup primer, providing a flawless, even base. And, a hybrid moisturizer/sunscreen treatment is ideal for those who don’t like the feel of too many products on their skin.
Your best skincare routine for acne: evening edit
Now’s a great time to point out that acne-prone skin isn’t dirty skin: excessive washing and rewashing over-dries your skin. Dry out your skin and you’ll over-produce more oils that (yes, you guessed it) can lead to more breakouts. But, cleansing is the critical first step to your evening skincare routine for acne. It’s the essential time to remove SPF, oils, bacteria, and dirt that have accumulated on your skin throughout the day.
A double cleanse is traditionally recommended at night. Your first cleanse removes makeup and SPF so your second cleanse can actually clean your skin. Cahitas says, “If double cleansing with your salicylic acid cleanser is a little too drying, try an oil-to-balm cleanser specifically designed to lift away makeup and SPF without stealing moisture.”
Follow the same steps with your toner, all-over treatment serum, and spot treatment as you did in the morning, then apply a moisturizer. Yes, even breakout-prone skin and oily skin needs hydration from a moisturizer. Many people who have breakouts and acne think that a moisturizer is going to make their condition worse. This isn’t true: a lack of hydration and moisture can cause a skin imbalance that actually makes breakouts worse.
Keep your skin hydrated and balanced with a non-comedogenic moisturizer infused with hyaluronic acid for deep, yet lightweight hydration. If you’re concerned about applying something that feels heavy on oily skin, opt for a gel hydrator over a cream. Since you’re already using an all-over treatment serum that contains salicylic acid, there’s no need to invest in a moisturizer with maximum-strength salicylic acid. Rather, look for a balanced gel moisturizer that contains salicylic acid along with extracts and botanicals that help address bacteria imbalances that can trigger acne.
Skincare isn’t all surface level! Cahitas reminds us that, “Taking this time to care for your skin is also time you’re taking to care for yourself, which can help with things like stress levels that are known to make acne worse. Make your routine a ritual that’s as good for your skin as it is for your soul.”
The views expressed in this article do not necessarily represent the views of Murad, and are for informational purposes only, even if the advice of physicians and medical practitioners are included. This article is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment, and should not be considered specific medical advice.
